Kamiyama is an anachronistic vortex of sawdusted sunlight and strangers you've met somewhere before, but can't quite place them.  Like the other night, while soaking in the rosemary bath at the onsen…I noticed the wooden ceiling above my head and how my left arm was slightly soar from sawing cedar all day and I recalled a similar, steamed ceiling 6 months prior, and that same arm sweating and sore in my grandfather's sauna after spending the summer evening chopping wood for the fire before me.  What I'm getting at here, is that the heart can be filled anywhere.  All you need is an axe, a match and some fine folk.  An ice cold beer helps too.