August 23rd-30th 2008

For my week summer holiday I decided to take myself away from the hot and humid climate of Tokushima-ken and head to Japan`s North Island, Hokkaido. Let this be the last time I mention the weather. Raining constantly for five days out of seven, not suitable for small electricals, not suitable at all, but I shall not harp on about it. Experience after all, be it wet and cloud ridden is worth more than material possessions; right??

JAL had a good deal from Kobe to Chitose where I picked up a hire car. Armed with a car, a tent, a motorbikers guide and “a brave heart” I headed off to the Eastern region Do-To to the wilds of three of Japan`s national parks, Shiretoko, Akan and Kushiro Shitsugen.

Shiretoko National Park

The Shiretoko National Park is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is largly undisturbed by human activity and has the largest concentration of brown bear in Japan. I was lucky enough to see one as it scrambled away from the shuttle bus. I had the most fabulous afternoon, the Shiretoko-go-ko (five lakes) looked like a perfect image from a motivational poster. Stepping away from the tour groups, I walked the board-walk alone and *bell-less with the words of a very familiar children`s song running through my mind accompanied by more macabre image. *It is advisable to wear a bell to warn bears of your approach.

“If you go down to the woods today, you’re sure of a big surprise. If you go down to the woods today, you’d better go in disguise. For every bear that ever there was, Will gather there for certain because Today’s the day the teddy bears have their picnic. ”

Further into the park is the Kamuiwakka-yu-no-taki, a warm spring waterfall that runs over smooth rocks. It feels good as you carefully walk up it bare foot. The water is mildly caustic and when you put a dirty copper ¥10 coin in it, the coin is restored to bright copper once more.

Akan National Park

I pitched my tent by the edge of Kussharo-ko and congratulated myself for arriving in daylight. When my car was a little low on fuel and the gas stations had closed, I was saved by fellow Shikokan from Kochi-ken. As Shikoko ambassadors we did our bit for Shikoku by presenting this bag of Kamiyama sudachi to the sushi chef in Kawayu onsen, with the message of “come to shikoku”. It worked he was very happy as Sudachi are very rare that far north, we got extra food.

Kushiro Shitsugen National Park

Heading back I stopped briefly at Kushiro for another 4.3Km walk on the board-walks they have crossing the marsh reserve and a final drenching. The views across the marsh were amazing and reminded me of the flat open panorama of game reserves in Africa. Then the low cloud closed around me and the view disappeared into another relentless rain storm.

On days such as these it`s easy to forget that this is Hokkaido in its summer season, the temperature just goes down from now on until it hits -40C in some of the places I visited and a blanket of white turns Kushiro Shitsugen National park into the much photographed stage for Japan`s iconic Tancho cranes. Perhaps I too will make it back this winter, I hear you can go ice diving off the coast of Abashiri.